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day 1 – Cardiff to Newport
18 Apr 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 20 completed: 20 to go: 1040.3
It all begins: a lost Garmin, a drowned land, a lighthouse with a Tardis, a bridge that moves, and an interview in woodland
day 2 – Nash to Severn Bridge
19 Apr 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 22 completed: 42 to go: 1018.3
The second day starts in the wildlife wetlands near Newport and takes me to the Severn Bridge (a short diversion form the path!), icon of 1960s modernism.
day 3 – Severn Bridge to Llandogo
20 Apr 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 15.7 completed: 57.7 to go: 1002.6
Day 3 takes me from the Severn Bridge to Llandogo, in the heart of the Wye Valley. Whereas the trip from Cardiff to Severn Bridge was dominated by the signs of 19th and 2oth century industry and heritage, moving into the Wye and Offa’s Dyke is more a shift to the mediaeval and older: castle and monastery, hill fort and folktale, wild leaps into the unknown. However, as I walk I found that while this certainly is a place of Norman Castles, Saxon ramparts and Iron Age hill forts … it is also home of First World War ship-buiding and the heart of early copper and tin industry. The day also marks the end of the Wales Coast Path and start of Offa’s Dyke Long Distance Path.
day 4 – Llandogo to Monmouth
21 Apr 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 7.3 completed: 65 to go: 995.3
An easier day; walking with Janet and Lewys, tea & cake at the Kymin, Monmouthopedia and BBQsrc, a missed meeting and a welcoming interstitial community
day 5 – Monmouth to Pandy
22 Apr 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 16.2 completed: 81.2 to go: 979.1
A day with Les, the Lancastrian Welsh speaker; woodstove and subterranian pump, old churches and multicoloured markers
day 6 – Pandy to Hay-on-Wye
23 Apr 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 17.8 completed: 99 to go: 961.3
This day runs almost all along a ridgeway with only the odd walker along the way. So more a day of wide panoramas ( both real and photographic) with little in the way of human settlement, let alone technology.
day 7 – Hay-on-Wye to Kington
24 Apr 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 14.5 completed: 113.5 to go: 946.8
This was a relatively relaxed day’s walking through farmland and low mountain moorland. It started with a discovery and ended with a meeting, with the odd monkey puzzle tree between.
day 8 – travel day from Kington back to Monmouth
25 Apr 2013: blog | flickr | map | data
a milestone - the first phase of the walk complete; a vetran walker on the bus, a 90 year old dancer, and the haunted house of Watery Lane
day 9 – leaving Monmouth and flying to Paris
day 11 – in Paris and wishing I were in Wales
day 16 – return to the trail
3 May 2013: blog | flickr | data
No walking this day, just a drive from Manchester Airport back to Kington, where I eventually visit the Tavern and muse on the future for a town in a time warp.
day 17 – Kington to Knighton
4 May 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 13.5 completed: 127 to go: 933.3
A day that starts and ends with two cafes and two golf courses, with rolling sheep-filled hillsides between. Flock art, unexplained turkey legs and a monument to a Victorian railway baron.
day 18 – Knighton to Newcastle
5 May 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 7.2 completed: 134.2 to go: 926.1
No, not Newcastle upon Tyne (that would be a long day), but Newcastle upon Clun, only a short seven and a half mile walk over low hills and farmland, nearly due north from Knighton, wth Offa’s Dyke clearly running beside the path for nearly all of the day and my first red kite.
day 19 – Newcastle to Forden
6 May 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 13.2 completed: 147.4 to go: 912.9
The day from Newcastle to Forden started with a 'switch back' over hills and valleys, which give way to long flat stretches of the Severn Flood plain, with an unexpected meeting on the way, images of imagination and feet that ran across Jura.
day 20 – Fordon to Porth-y-Waen
7 May 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 20.1 completed: 167.5 to go: 892.8
A longish, but easy day cutting across the flood plains of the Severn. Passing the birthplace of the now ubiquitous Leylandii, a dry dam and a possible nuclear bunker.
day 21 – Porth-y-Waen to Llangollen
8 May 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 19.5 completed: 187 to go: 873.3
A day of three castles, one that was not, one that was missed and one of a king who will come again. A day of lows, but ending on top of the world.
day 22 – travel and talking
No walking today, just travel day back to Kington to pick up the van and then talk in the evening at Glyndwr University in Wrexham.
day 23 – Llangollen to Ruthin
10 May 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 15.6 completed: 202.6 to go: 857.7
A day that starts with a journey to World’s End and finishes at Weatherspoons, taking in an Iron Age fort, Heathcliff moorland, and, guided by a gaping socket led eventually to the future site of a 21st century shepherd’s hut.
day 24 – Ruthin to Prestatyn
11 May 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 20.7 completed: 223.3 to go: 837
A long day, over high mist-swathed moorland, through horizontal stinging hail, across rolling farmland, and honey-sweet gorse hills, passing pack-laden school parties and meeting walkers from Colwyn Bay, before eventually skirting the escarpement high above Prestatyn and, with the falling sun, to the sea and the northern tip of Offa’s Dyke path.
day 25 – Chester to Flint
12 May 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 11 completed: 234.3 to go: 826
The northern start of the Welsh Coast Path … if you can find it. A day starting with a long walk along the straight canal-like Dee and ending with a castle dwarfed by towers. Power station and Airbus wing, tide-swept flotsam and rain-drenched walking.
day 26 – Flint to Mostyn
13 May 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 8 completed: 242.3 to go: 818
Eighteenth century immigration and pollution, gunshots across the marches, and one of the modern wonders of Wales.
day 27 – Mostyn to Abergele
14 May 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 18 completed: 260.3 to go: 800
Political images on the Duke of Lancaster, a wind farm farm, a gas terminal and a lighthouse, dunes and promenade, more promenade, and more, slightly dingy, promenade, and a sea of caravans.
day 28 – Abergele to Conwy
15 May 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 21 completed: 281.3 to go: 779
Meeting a missionary in a Llanfairfechan cafe and mistaken for a druid on Great Orm, St Trillio’s by the sea and Conwy by night.
day 29 – Conwy to Llanfairfechan
16 May 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 8 completed: 289.3 to go: 771
While yesterday was supposed to be a short day and turned out to be a long one, today was intended to be a long one, from Conway to Bangor, but turned out to be shorter. Sand, roads, railways and a message from Buzz.
day 30 – Llanfairfechan to Menai Bridge
17 May 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 13 completed: 302.3 to go: 758
Along the coastal nature reserves leading to Bangor, City of Learning and first steps on Anglesey. A labyrinth, an unplanned tour of an industrial estate, and an unplanned sausage and bacon bun.
day 31 – Menai Bridge to Benllech
18 May 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 21 completed: 323.3 to go: 737
onto Anglesey, island of druid and prayer; a missing cafe, a priory dovecote, a wave-lashed lighthouse and a blocked path
day 32 – Benllech to Amlwch
19 May 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 15 completed: 338.3 to go: 722
the lifeboatman mapmaker, Anglo-French connections, deadman's gold and animal rescue
day 33 – Amlwch to Cemaes
20 May 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 8 completed: 346.3 to go: 714
overlooking brickworks and approaching Yr Wylfa; a signal man, a station environment officer, and a youth in black
day 34 – MHA in Rhos-on-Sea and Colwyn Bay
21 May 2013: blog | flickr | map | data
A tale of two visits, from independence to dependence a path we all take, redefining ageing, and challenging spirituality.
day 35 – Cemaes to Church Bay
22 May 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 12 completed: 358.3 to go: 702
This day took me to one third of the way round Wales. Nuclear power and flower power, white ladies and ladies in black, hidden gardens and wild gardens.
day 36 – Writing and WiFi: Beach Hut and MorphPod
23 May 2013: blog | flickr | map | data
No walking just a day to catch up and seek out new experiences before setting off for wedding in Sheffield. Starting in the Beach Hut Cafe on Llanfairfechan and ending up in The MorphPod at Felindre, near Knighton … back into Offa’s Dyke territory
day 37 – wake in a MorphPod and off to a wedding
24 May 2013: blog | flickr | data
a walker, a community pub, nuclear safety and a cutting-edge technology camping hut
day 38 – Off-Path – Sheffield
A day far from the Wales coast at a wedding in Sheffield, but hearing tales of inundation and a images of journeying.
day 39 – back to the path
26 May 2013: blog | flickr | data
Back to the trail after the wedding, but pondering the life of the village shop and the glory of the penny post en route.
day 40 – Church Bay to Holyhead
27 May 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 14 completed: 372.3 to go: 688
wet and windy, puddles and a new bridge, crabs in the grass and cockle pickers beneath the chimney
day 41 – Holyhead to Rhosneiger
28 May 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 26 completed: 398.3 to go: 662
in which the intrepid walker meets other intrepid walkers and cyclists, extends his vocabulary, learns mastery of cattle , and conquers weather and distance
day 42 – Rhosneigr to Malltraeth
29 May 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 14 completed: 412.3 to go: 648
a simple coast walk involving bovine encounters, an ancient burial, a church in the sea, and the seat of princes, and, although we miss on the path, picnic dinner with a fellow coast walker
day 43 – Malltraeth to Menai Bridge
30 May 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 22 completed: 434.3 to go: 626
missed beach, trackless dunes, stoney ground, chaste cupid, and salacious gossip
day 44 – Menai Bridge to Caernarfon
31 May 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 9 completed: 443.3 to go: 617
in which I encounter a scarecrow at the docks and a giant rubics cube, visit a nurturing place for aspiring artists and designers and the home of advanced geo information in Wales
day 45 – a day in Caernarfon
1 Jun 2013: blog | flickr | data
radical roots in the North West of Wales
day 46 – Caernarfon to Nefyn
2 Jun 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 26 completed: 469.3 to go: 591
starting the Lleyn Peninsular, race for life, a wrong turn on the dyke, the road goes ever on, I need a knife and glimpse a half-understood fragment of local life
day 47 – Nefyn to Tudweilog
3 Jun 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 9 completed: 478.3 to go: 582
a leisurely day, bread pudding and marine biology, seaplanes and wild boar pate
day 48 – Tudweiliog to Aberdaron
4 Jun 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 17 completed: 495.3 to go: 565
round the end of Lleyn: fishing, orchids, ham and eggs and a pilgrimage
day 49 – Aberdaron to Abersoch
5 Jun 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 21 completed: 516.3 to go: 544
a goat, a bull and a dead calf, a subterranean landscape populated by the Cornish, brought to tears twice, and lost four times, and end in the land of private
day 50 – Abersoch to Criccieth
6 Jun 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 20 completed: 536.3 to go: 524
shifting sands and an iron man, coin studded trunks, bright painted huts, and I get to half way,
day 51 – Criccieth to Porthmadog
7 Jun 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 11 completed: 547.3 to go: 513
a short day to start the second half, an ice cream parlour and quay-side bistro, a steam railway and a surreal village
day 54 – Penrhyndeudraeth to Harlech
10 Jun 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 16 completed: 563.3 to go: 497
a day on the coast path with no sea, oak wood and hydroelectric, exhausting, depressing, and encouraging at the end
day 55 – Harlech to Barmouth
11 Jun 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 17 completed: 580.3 to go: 480
reminder of a gypsy holocaust, a church in the sand, adders in the marsh, beach sculptures and pizza tales
day 56 – Barmouth to Fairbourne and Dysynni Valley
12 Jun 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 4 completed: 584.3 to go: 476
a toll bridge with no toll, a Genoan wreck and a textile map, Mary Jones’ Bible and Jane Whittle’s gallery
day 57 – Fairbourne to Aberdyfi
13 Jun 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 21 completed: 605.3 to go: 455
station incognito, I get to Aberdyfi twice and pass through Tywyn four times, rain, getting lost, more rain, getting lost again, a glorious beach and an inglorious diet
day 58 – Aberdyfi to Machynlleth
14 Jun 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 12 completed: 617.3 to go: 443
another coast path day without the sea, a life boat and a crocodile, a Royal church welcoming all faiths, and growing poverty in a grieving town
day 59 – Machynlleth to Aberystwyth
15 Jun 2013: blog | audio | map | data
miles walked: 21 completed: 638.3 to go: 422
from centre of power to centre of learning, up and down the hills and valleys, far from the sea, Roman Steps and old ways, a wild walk along beach and cliff and, no, don’t break the window
day 60 – Aberystwyth to Aberaeron
16 Jun 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 18 completed: 656.3 to go: 404
memorials to Welsh nationalism and red kites hunting, lost sheep and first poetry
day 61 – writing and WiFi at Aberaeron
17 Jun 2013: blog | flickr | map | data
a day writing, admin and checking mail, yuppie-free yachts and Georgian terraces, a market town and £1.20 shop
day 62 – Aberaeron to Aberporth
18 Jun 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 19 completed: 675.3 to go: 385
breakfast on the quay, a precipitous path and new-look Urdd camp, 3G but only in Cardiff, and a warm welcome at The Ship.
day 63 – Off path visit to Lampeter
19 Jun 2013: blog | flickr | map | data
lovely people at Lampeter, imagining the future and peeking into the past
day 64 – Aberporth to Cardigan
20 Jun 2013: blog | audio | map | data
miles walked: 13 completed: 688.3 to go: 372
the oily fingered philosopher and the suspicious photographer of an MOD facility, dolphins and aborigines, a church by a hill and the ministry of hospitality, not to mention Willy Wonka
day 65 – Cardigan to Newport
21 Jun 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 18 completed: 706.3 to go: 354
“It’s hard, very hard”, arduous vertiginous path and rural life for the incomer, not to mention twenty dancing virgins
day 66 – Newport to Goodwich
22 Jun 2013: blog | flickr | audio | data
miles walked: 13 completed: 719.3 to go: 341
an easier day, along a coast like a half-eaten sandwich, green and black beetles, the last invasion of Britain, and the final voyage of the Lusitania
day 67 – Fishguard to Strumble Head
23 Jun 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 6 completed: 725.3 to go: 335
an unexpectedly glorious day, Fairyland and choral evensong
day 68 – Strumble Head to Abereidy
24 Jun 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 16 completed: 741.3 to go: 319
local knowledge and stone circles, decayed brickworks and a deep lagoon
day 69 – Abereiddy to Caerfai
25 Jun 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 16 completed: 757.3 to go: 303
sandal walking again, wild ponies and a floating seal, Hebridean havoc and the first feminist, spray drift and the true path
day 70 – Caerfai to Newgale
26 Jun 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 8 completed: 765.3 to go: 295
words and WiFi at the Oriel-y-Parc, horses and lime kilns, surfers and mobility scooters
day 71 – Newgale to St Brides
27 Jun 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 13 completed: 778.3 to go: 282
satsumas and soldiers, a fragmented nation and fracturing cliff edge, and a friend well met
day 72 – St Brides to Dale
28 Jun 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 15 completed: 793.3 to go: 267
candles for peace and fortifications for war, a Twitter contact and a volunteer coastwatcher, a tantalising isthmus and a giant popgun
day 73 – Dale to Neyland
29 Jun 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 16 completed: 809.3 to go: 251
tidal detours and delays, the unforgiving sea, caged paths and a town with good taste
day 74 – Neyland to Pembroke
30 Jun 2013: blog | flickr | map | data
miles walked: 6 completed: 815.3 to go: 245
military heritage and maritime houses; bullocks, bridges, mud and swans; a bad take-away with a glorious view
day 75 – Pembroke to St Govan’s Chapel
1 Jul 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 28 completed: 843.3 to go: 217
the second longest day, oil and power, whisky and waves, ribs in the rock
day 76 – St Govan’s Chapel to Freshwater East
2 Jul 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 7 completed: 850.3 to go: 210
a short damp day starting with a steep hill, walking an embroidered landscape, a change of rock means a change of scene, and hubris: a walled cliff top surrounding a demolished mansion
day 77 – Freshwater East to Saundersfoot
3 Jul 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 15 completed: 865.3 to go: 195
a badgers and a dolmen, being the outsider: HIV and holiday camps, seaside holidays and Famous Five adventures
day 78 – Saundersfoot to Amroth
4 Jul 2013: blog | flickr | map | data
miles walked: 3 completed: 868.3 to go: 192
in which Fiona and I travel through dark tunnels and across wooded cliffs, to get to the end of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
day 79 – day off – Tenby and Caldey Island
5 Jul 2013: blog | flickr | map | data
a lightening visit to the island of the saints, fear of loss and a gift of cake
day 80 – Amroth to Laugharne
6 Jul 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 11 completed: 879.3 to go: 181
I negotiate a beach, sink in a ford, walk where a poet has trod, and meet a philosopher chef
day 81 – Laugharne to Llansteffan
7 Jul 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 15 completed: 894.3 to go: 166
the deserted path of the first Carmarthenshire estuary, a glimpse of Dylan Thomas’ boathouse, no rest at the Pilgrim’s Rest, but water from a mythical queen
day 82 – Llansteffan to Carmarthen
8 Jul 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 9 completed: 903.3 to go: 157
a walk on the sands and a curious community, learning from locals, and the dog who was afraid of hats
day 83 – Carmarthen to Kidwelly
9 Jul 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 14 completed: 917.3 to go: 143
mostly roads, a little beach, a rebel and a local hero
day 84 – Kidwelly to Llanelli
10 Jul 2013: blog | flickr | map | data
miles walked: 13 completed: 930.3 to go: 130
“one aim, one business, one desire”, a repaired exhaust, and cycling for work
day 85 – Llanelli to Llanrhidian
11 Jul 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 17 completed: 947.3 to go: 113
we don’t do Swansea, the jungles of North Gower and a fortuitous meeting
day 86 – Llanrhidian to Hillend
12 Jul 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 12 completed: 959.3 to go: 101
fellow walkers and runners, a community shop and search for childhood cave
day 87 – Hillend to Port Eynon
13 Jul 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 9 completed: 968.3 to go: 92
encounters with a snake and a horsefly, an unexpected fellow traveller, eastern and western meditations, and two acts of kindness
day 88 – off path – a wedding in Nottingham
14 Jul 2013: blog | flickr | map | data
a wedding in the east and a plumber who likes a challenge, suits, tents and paper boats
day 89 – Port Eynon to Three Cliffs
15 Jul 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 8 completed: 976.3 to go: 84
starting with an unexpected meeting; journeying past limestone, line-wash and wind-flung sand dunes; stories of trauma: broken toe nails, bites, bruises and brain tumours, and intimations of consciousness; ending with a cornucopia of kindness and a sumptuous feast
day 90 – Three Cliffs to Swansea
16 Jul 2013: blog | flickr | audio | map | data
miles walked: 14 completed: 990.3 to go: 70
meeting a new friend, and eating with old ones, tank tracks and snake tracks, the first female industrialist and the slow emancipation of women
day 91 – filming at Three Cliffs
17 Jul 2013: blog | flickr | data
slumming it executive-style and an interview in the sun, pilgrimage and walking music
day 92 – day at Three Cliffs
writing and laundry, foam floods and laundry vans
day 93 – Swansea to Port Talbot
19 Jul 2013: blog | flickr | audio | data
miles walked: 13 completed: 1003.3 to go: 57
surprised by nature behind the busy streets and Stallone on the waterside, faint childhood memories and grand hotels
day 94 – Port Talbot to Porthcawl
20 Jul 2013: blog | flickr | audio | data
miles walked: 10 completed: 1013.3 to go: 47
a beach under threat and childhood memories
day 95 – Porthcawl to Ogmore
21 Jul 2013: blog | flickr | audio | data
miles walked: 7 completed: 1020.3 to go: 40
beaches and BMI, a dolls-house lighthouse and the highest dune, melting gelato and treading on ghosts, fish and chips by the fun fair
day 96 – talk at Swansea
talking about walking, Welsh cakes and the future of energy
day 97 – interview at Llansteffan
salubrious places, shifting sands and broken bodies
day 98 – Ogmore to Llantwit Major
24 Jul 2013: blog | flickr | audio | data
miles walked: 11 completed: 1031.3 to go: 29
late breakfast, limestone beaches, and an ancient seat of learning
day 99 – Llantwit Major to Barry
25 Jul 2013: blog | flickr | audio | data
miles walked: 16 completed: 1047.3 to go: 13
tank traps at the power station, and a fresh view of childhood haunts
day 100 – Barry to Cadoxton and MHA visit at Penarth
26 Jul 2013: blog | flickr | data
miles walked: 2 completed: 1049.3 to go: 11
a short walk and meeting nonagenarians
day 101 – Cadoxton to Penarth
27 Jul 2013: blog | flickr | data
miles walked: 8 completed: 1057.3 to go: 3
and then we were five
day 102 – Penarth to Cardiff
28 Jul 2013: blog | flickr | data
miles walked: 3 completed: 1060.3 to go: 0
homecoming to classic Cardiff weather, the end is a beginning