stage 9 — North Pembrokeshire

18–30 June 2013

Glorious coastline, the most arduous 10 miles of the entire coast (Cardigan–Newport), the tiny cathedral of St Davids, ending with tidal stepping stones and gas terminals of Milford Haven.

  1. day 62 – Aberaeron to Aberporth

    miles walked: 19   completed: 675.3   to go: 385

    breakfast on the quay, a precipitous path and new-look Urdd camp, 3G but only in Cardiff, and a warm welcome at The Ship.

  2. day 63 – Off path visit to Lampeter

    lovely people at Lampeter, imagining the future and peeking into the past

  3. day 65 – Cardigan to Newport

    miles walked: 18   completed: 706.3   to go: 354

    “It’s hard, very hard”, arduous vertiginous path and rural life for the incomer, not to mention twenty dancing virgins

  4. day 66 – Newport to Goodwich

    miles walked: 13   completed: 719.3   to go: 341

    an easier day, along a coast like a half-eaten sandwich, green and black beetles, the last invasion of Britain, and the final voyage of the Lusitania

  5. day 67 – Fishguard to Strumble Head

    miles walked: 6   completed: 725.3   to go: 335

    an unexpectedly glorious day, Fairyland and choral evensong

  6. day 68 – Strumble Head to Abereidy

    miles walked: 16   completed: 741.3   to go: 319

    local knowledge and stone circles, decayed brickworks and a deep lagoon

  7. day 69 – Abereiddy to Caerfai

    miles walked: 16   completed: 757.3   to go: 303

    sandal walking again, wild ponies and a floating seal, Hebridean havoc and the first feminist, spray drift and the true path

  8. day 70 – Caerfai to Newgale

    miles walked: 8   completed: 765.3   to go: 295

    words and WiFi at the Oriel-y-Parc, horses and lime kilns, surfers and mobility scooters

  9. day 71 – Newgale to St Brides

    miles walked: 13   completed: 778.3   to go: 282

    satsumas and soldiers, a fragmented nation and fracturing cliff edge, and a friend well met

  10. day 72 – St Brides to Dale

    miles walked: 15   completed: 793.3   to go: 267

    candles for peace and fortifications for war, a Twitter contact and a volunteer coastwatcher, a tantalising isthmus and a giant popgun

  11. day 73 – Dale to Neyland

    miles walked: 16   completed: 809.3   to go: 251

    tidal detours and delays, the unforgiving sea, caged paths and a town with good taste

  12. day 74 – Neyland to Pembroke

    miles walked: 6   completed: 815.3   to go: 245

    military heritage and maritime houses; bullocks, bridges, mud and swans; a bad take-away with a glorious view