stage 8 — West Coast

10–17 June 2013

Endless beaches, interspersed with whole days far from the sea deep inland skirting estuaries, which I found the hardest part of the walk; however, all ending in the wonderful Ceredigion coast path.

  1. day 54 – Penrhyndeudraeth to Harlech

    miles walked: 16   completed: 563.3   to go: 497

    a day on the coast path with no sea, oak wood and hydroelectric, exhausting, depressing, and encouraging at the end

  2. day 55 – Harlech to Barmouth

    miles walked: 17   completed: 580.3   to go: 480

    reminder of a gypsy holocaust, a church in the sand, adders in the marsh, beach sculptures and pizza tales

  3. day 56 – Barmouth to Fairbourne and Dysynni Valley

    miles walked: 4   completed: 584.3   to go: 476

    a toll bridge with no toll, a Genoan wreck and a textile map, Mary Jones’ Bible and Jane Whittle’s gallery

  4. day 57 – Fairbourne to Aberdyfi

    miles walked: 21   completed: 605.3   to go: 455

    station incognito, I get to Aberdyfi twice and pass through Tywyn four times, rain, getting lost, more rain, getting lost again, a glorious beach and an inglorious diet

  5. day 58 – Aberdyfi to Machynlleth

    miles walked: 12   completed: 617.3   to go: 443

    another coast path day without the sea, a life boat and a crocodile, a Royal church welcoming all faiths, and growing poverty in a grieving town

  6. day 60 – Aberystwyth to Aberaeron

    miles walked: 18   completed: 656.3   to go: 404

    memorials to Welsh nationalism and red kites hunting, lost sheep and first poetry

  7. day 61 – writing and WiFi at Aberaeron

    a day writing, admin and checking mail, yuppie-free yachts and Georgian terraces, a market town and £1.20 shop